Tour France: Spring in Paris & Provence

Tour France: Spring in Paris and Provence

What a whirlwind arrival. Talk about “hitting the ground running”. What a beautiful day! Sights galore. Wonderful views. It was bliss!
Let’s orient ourselves to Paris.

Two of our professional photographers. Anthony’s trips with us are great!! And Michel is tops! They are both enjoying the mid day sunshine!
Of course, they might be smiling because of their lunch!Then, of course, the photographers in our group started snapping away –while the rest of us admired our surroundings.

To finish the day, we enjoy a non touristy rooftop view and a glass of rose….It was Bliss!

What us to save you a space on one of our summer trips –Bastille Day? August Lavender season? Let us know now! wendy@blisstravels.com

Tour France (& the world) with Bliss and other Bloggers!

An Award! Love it! Thank you Backyard in Provence. We find your posts “blissful” to read as well! Ashley is living the dream, having moved to Provence with her husband and daughter. She gets to spend all of her time on exploring this amazing region – imagine if your vacation in Provence didn’t end after a week or two!! We love her posts, and know that every single one of our readers and clients are jealous@

The “how to” of this award is:

  •       Thank the person who gave this award and write a post about it.
  •       Answer the questions on your favorites below.
  •       Pass on the award to 10 fabulous bloggers, link their blogs, and let them know you awarded them.

Here are my favorites:

Favorite Color – Red in Spring (for poppies) and Purple/lavender in summer for you know what! And, of course, oranges in fall….Do I have to pick one color for the entire year?

Favorite Animal – Emmy the wonder dog (all of my clients know why that is….the rest of you will have to come on a trip to find out!)  –any clients who wish to comment on Emmy may do so freely below!

Favorite Number – right now, 5 –the number of exciting summer trips we have planned!

Favorite Drink – Rose in Provence and Burgundy anywhere else!

Facebook or Twitter – Facebook –I like photos!

Your Passion – That’s easy –France–mostly Provence, the Med and Burgundy. That’s why the business is named BLISS travels!

Giving or getting presents – Giving. Love to see happy surprised people!

Favorite Day – Any day spent in Provencal sunshine.

Favorite Flowers – Poppies and anything growing in the Luxembourg gardens.

Backyard in Provence “stole” some of my favorite blogger’s names. So please know you also would have been nominated.

Please click away and check out some of these blogs. If you’re on the list, please pay it forward….

1. bobbieconti

2. ENOFLYZ

3. Foodimentary

4. Lot18 Blog

5. Rantings of an Amateur Chef

6. Leslie Carter

and related 7. Bucket List Publications

8. FrenchWeddingStyle (Monique Mariage)

9. My World of Food Adventures

10. Travel Destination Bucket List

All great writers, adventurers, diners –as well as visually exciting! Share the Bliss 

Tour France: Recipes from Locals & Insider Experiences during Vacations in Provence

Tour France: Recipes from Locals & Insider Experiences during Vacations in Provence

I’ve been touring France and leading small custom groups on “insider vacations” for a while now. Some of what we do is haute cuisine and grand chefs with Michelin stars. But, some of the best, most authentic experiences occur in the countryside and about country cooking and local lore. I have been collecting recipes, adapting them and teaching French cuisine for almost as long as I have been leading trips.

Each recipe has a story. This one is very special. The story is as deliciously amusing as this country recipe is tasty.  So for a casual Provencal experience, try this story on for size!

Everybody should meet their local French butcher. He is charming, funny, full of advice and local color. One day several years ago, while attempting to test some new recipes as well as research an area winery, and be very efficient by accomplishing this in one afternoon, a woman who worked for me and I decided to visit the local butcher of Menerbes instead of the one in our nearby town. The weather was quite hot and we needed to order meat, but didn’t want to cart it around with us all day, to roast in the strong provencal sun. In this way, we two American women, entered the Boucherie in Menerbes, requesting, ever so politely, in French, to please have a chicken (and rabbit, if one was available) prepared for us. We asked if he would be so kind as to hold it for us in refrigeration for several hours. This was no problem. He would be glad to help us, but it’s not possible that we are American he says. He is convinced that since we speak French and wish to cook…..well, clearly we must be English or Australian or just simply confused. No, we assure him we are sure of our origins. To make conversation, we inquired politely about several of the prepared foods he has in his case.

In France, it is quite common for Butcher to also sell certain prepared items such as ratatouille, grated carrot salad, stuffed vegetables,  roasted tomatoes/eggplants, and the like. He starts waxing poetic about his ratatouille, which, coincidentally, he is in the process of making at this very moment.

When we mention that we also are planning to make this dish later that day, he insists that we follow him through his shop (which he cavalierly leaves unattended) through his living quarters, and laundry area to his kitchen where he is making the biggest vat of ratatouille known to mankind. As we look around, we see not only the vat of simmering fragrant vegetables, but colanders of cooked vegetables, tilted this way and that,  and a large fry pan still warm and oily from before we entered the shop. Next to the stove was a small metal framed kitchen table, with an ashtray, a water glass ½ full of red wine, and the corked bottle. Clearly this was the perch from which Monsieur le Boucher watched his ratatouille simmer. The Butcher painstakingly describes the secret to his ratatouille, which is that one must first cook each vegetable separately, and then drain them before finally creating the mélange. He thoughtfully stirs the pot. After we thank him, showing our appreciation for his generosity, he guided us through the doors of the now reopened Boucherie, and bellows into the street a hearty  ”a bientot”.  When we return several hours later, the butcher is in the shop, but comes to the street with our bird, to chat with us. That we are stopped in the middle of a tiny one lane winding road  (one of only two that exit the entire village) is of no consequence to him. He  chats boisterously with us, asking us about our day, the recipes, whether we’d like to take some ratatouille and nobody seems bothered by the fact that they are held up in ‘traffic’. Nobody other than us, that is. The car behind us is content to wait. After all, this is important. We are discussing dinner!

Ratatouille recipe* It must be stated that Ratatouille is to the Provencale what meatloaf is to the typical American family. Every family has their own recipe with it’s own special ingredients. More often than not it is made with a handful of this and a handful of that. Like meatloaf here, it is the sort of dish that non-cooks, cook. And like meatloaf, it is often best the next day served cold, or even reheated. Sitting overnight allows the flavors to meld nicely. Below is my favorite recipe. It seems to be what works best both in France and the United States, with their different sorts and size s of produce. But that doesn’t mean you can’t alter the proportion of vegetables, or even substitute them….Just make sure to take the butcher’s advice, and cook each one separately before creating the mélange.

1 Red Pepper

10oz Eggplant, cut into ¾ inch cubes

2 lb small green zucchini, cut into ¾ inch cubes

2 lb ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 ib sweet onion, coarsely chopped

12 T olive oil or peanut oil (peanut oil can be heated hotter, but olive oil lends a nice flavor)

1 bay leaf

2-3 sprigs of fresh Thyme

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper

6 leaves of basil, chopped.

Heat 2 T of oil, cook peppers for a couple minutes. Drain peppers and transfer peppers to a colander. Wipe pan clean of  excess oil,.Add 3 T of oil to the pan and sauté onions on medium heat for several minutes until lightly browned. Transfer onions to colander, and wipe pan. Add 2 T of oil and reheat pan. Brown zucchini at medium high heat and drain, and add to colander. Last, add 2 more T oil to pan, heat at medium high heat and brown eggplant for several minutes, stirring as needed, and drain and add to colander. Heat  a large pan, one large enough to accommodate all the vegetables. Add the remaining oil and heat. Add garlic and sauté for one minute. Add tomatoes, sprinkle with sugar (if you have very sweet, ripe, flavorful tomatoes, the sugar will be unnecessary) and add herbs, except basil.  Bring the the tomatoes and their liquid to a boil. Add salt and pepper and all the other vegetables, stir, reduce heat and cover. Cook for 30 minutes  or more until very tender. Stir occasionally to avoid burning. When finished,  remove the pot from the heat and remove Thyme sprigs and bay leaf.  Add the fresh basil. This dish is best the longer you let it sit, so the flavors of the vegetables can meld properly. Let the ratatouille sit in the pot off of the heat at least another 30 minutes, or better yet, cool the pot down and refrigerate overnight.

So, if you can’t attend one of our amazing trips to Provence, and experience Bliss with us, then at least visit your local farm and enjoy some freshly made ratatouille!

Tour France: What is Bastille Day in Provence?

Tour France: What is Bastille Day in Provence?

Bastille Day –July 14, is the day the peasantry stormed the Bastille (Paris prison). The revolutionary spark was presumably lit by Marie Antoinette’s suggestion  about the starving peasantry to “let them eat cake.” Of course, we’ll never know her real intent. And, truthfully, by the time the Bastille was “stormed”, there weren’t many prisoners left. However, the day has become a major celebration in France, much like July 4th is for us in America.

Paris is lit up. There are parades, military services and fireworks over the Eiffel Tower. It’s truly a sight. But, we find our Bliss in Bastille Day in Provence.

If you tour France and have the chance to visit Provence on Bastille Day –you can find:

Stupendous special markets with special street fairs and fun fair attached to them

Group meals with Provencal specialties that entire towns attend (and you can too)

Running of the bulls through the streets

Bull fights (but not the kind that hurt the bulls)

Outdoor “toasts”

Parades

Evening balls and outdoor dances in town squares

And fireworks over stunning Medieval villages.

We have one such trip planned –and it’s going to be a once in a lifetime –probably 6 person –visit to Provence –where we spend a weekend doing all of these things–as well as wine tastings and a stay in the Luberon –the most beautiful part of Provence.

Tour France: Find Out About Summer Vacation in Provence (Bastille Day)

Tour France: Summer Vacation in Provence is spectacular.

Sunflowers. We stopped by the side of the road to photograph the sunflower fields.

Provencal Markets –All sorts of great foods and treats (see our earlier blog about how to shop the markets).

This particular Lavender field was a field we walked to –it was in a hidden, off road place. Up in the hills are Roman ruins that are not excavated, and also below –about a 1/2 mile walk is a watering hold where we went swimming. Not a tourist spot at all. In fact, a local friend showed it to us.

And, Bastille Day! What is Bastille Day and what are Bastille Day celebrations like?

See our next post. We’re going to tell you all about the fun activities and what you can do in France during BASTILLE DAY 2012.

A Bientôt,

Bliss Travels!

Provence Foods! Goat Cheeses – the “insider experience”

French cheeses. No other country produces more cheese!

I have a number of clients who come on trips and say they love French cheese, but not goat cheeses. I have NO clients who leave us after a trip and haven’t found at least one goat cheese they absolutely love! It’s true 100% of the time.

We have some great insider experiences we’ve offered to “foodies” who want to explore cheeses. Below is a selection of carefully chosen goat cheeses from 3 local artisan producers, along with local figs, that we provided for a private lunch.

This begins our private visit to a very small local goat farm and artisan cheese producer. She makes the best fresh goat cheeses in the area. The flavor changes depending upon the time of day and also the season the animal is milked. Some of the cheeses are seasoned with herbs or peppercorns. Some are plain.

There are different goat cheeses made in each area. One of the best, and hardest to find in the US is Banon –a goat cheese wrapped and aged in chestnut leaves. We usually have this as a cheese course in a tiny auberge we go to. The texture of these cheeses depends greatly on its age.

If you find French cheese Bliss, then maybe you ought to visit Provence.

–Wendy

What is Insider Access & Insider Photos from Provence & Burgundy

What is “insider access”?

and why you should care!
Insider experiences are things that you can’t do on your own. They are little known, out of the way experiences, or they are things not open to the general public (and arranged especial for you).
As you can see from our photos, that’s what Bliss Travels is all about.
Perhaps you’d like to eat at a restaurant that isn’t filled with tourists –maybe one that is only opened for you?
Or experience a custom wine tasting in a private venue?Private Tasting of Chateauneuf du Pape
Have a Michelin starred restaurant prepare a special tasting menu or private room? 
Visit the bell tower of a Knight’s Templar church (not open to the public) with the curate?
Have a Provencal cooking class on a farm instead of a “sterile” kitchen?
Have a private chef prepare a superb picnic for a train ride to the South of France or to eat under a Roman bridge?
 train picnic
Enjoy a custom barrel tasting in a cellar with the winemaker? 
Visit a tiny little known gem of a village?
We think this makes travel special and that’s why we do it. And we do it for very small groups –usually 6-8 people. Never more than 12.
Not every exclusive access experience is about “money” or big names. Though sometimes they include those sorts of destinations. These are really the sorts of things you can’t “buy” with a deluxe credit card because they are not mass market  (even platinum and black cards) and they are not about commerce.   They are about time and effort and relationships.
You get them because you’ve got a “friend” with an “in”! So, if you want to have an authentic, hard to find cultural experience and interact with people in a way that goes beyond having them make change for you when you purchase a souvenir, then you want to experience Bliss!
September: all rooms full. 1 suite left (closing out May 10th)
October: 4 rooms only
June 10 -full
June 29: 1 room
July and August: 3 rooms.

A Perfect Day in Provence with “Insider Access”

One of our favorite days…A lunch in a small village, following a private wine tasting, in a cave from the 1400′s. The meal is custom to the group and the company is amazing. It’s Bliss. The amazing photos were taken by Anthony Bianciella (he co leads our photography trips and chronicles our adventures).
Our group of 8 was welcomed to a candle lit room with music playing. We had 4 wines from the Cote du Rhone. This tasting focuses on Chateauneuf du Pape. Some focus on Provencal Roses. We design each one for the people who are attending.
From the Kitchen area of our chef
Her private work space!
A special meal was prepared for everyone. Some had a duck confit. Some had orange and fennel salad with a fish wrapped in parchment.Our fabulous host came to see us off!

A True Story of Americans in Provence: Insider Info!

A Recent Liberation, A True Story of French American Relations

By Wendy Jaeger and Bill Mathesius

In recent years there has been much banter about the supposed strained nature of Franco-American relations. Americans believe the French dislike them. And, for their part, the French believe it is the Americans who dislike them.  I wish I had a euro for each time a French person has asked me why we Americans dislike them so much. Each side tells its own stories of rejection and animosity.  Americans tried to ban imports of French wine and our dislike was so intense we actually tried to change the name of our favorite fast food from French fries to “Freedom” fries – never mind that the deep-fried potato dish has no origin in French cuisine! For their part, the French feel invaded by American fast food and policy and have set about destroying “McDo,” as they call McDonalds (which, perhaps, may not be an altogether bad thing).

However, on a “people to people” level, things are much better than advertised. In fact, maybe they were never as bad as the press would have us believe. Over the years I have had the pleasure of taking many small groups to France as a part of my culinary/travel business, Bliss Travels. My clients are always surprised by the kindness and generosity of the people we encounter—not because we expect them to be otherwise. Rather, we wouldn’t expect anyone to give so freely of their time, of their knowledge, of themselves.  That summer was no exception.

I once more delivered a group to one of my favorite towns, a mid-size town nestled in a valley of the Luberon. It is an “authentic” town; little English is spoken. The town and the surrounding countryside are populated by families who have lived there for generations. There are no trains or planes to take you there. (In a charming and typical French twist, there is a train station office in the town, but the closest set of tracks is 100 kilometers away.) Perhaps this is why the town doesn’t change much from year to year.

We chose an “off” day to walk the pedestrian part of the town. This town is known for its outstanding weekly market which, like a hard rain, spills and fills every corner of the town. It winds through the streets and squares, going on for miles. As a result, one can never really “see” the town itself during market day. My group arrived late afternoon to sample the fresh fruit, wine, candies and crafts and to uncover gifts for their children. My two pre-teen daughters were with me to help pick out treats. We stopped at a children’s candy store to ask a question.

The “responsable” – the man in charge – was an elderly gentleman sitting a stool and resting his hands on an intricately carved cane.  Though clearly a shopkeeper, he was crisply dressed in a black vest which was buttoned over a well worn white dress shirt, it in turn buttoned to the neck, and black pants with slight shiny patches at the knees. All that was missing was a black beret jauntily perched upon his head. He appeared to be in his later 60’s and spoke only fragmentary English. When I spoke to him in French, he asked me where I was from.  When I responded “America,” he half-smiled, saying, “Bravo!” At first, I thought this sarcastic. In recent years, American policy has been neither popular nor fully understood by the French. I responded with a frown of confusion and a tilt of my head.  Seeing my look of concern, he said “Non, non . . .” and repeated himself : “Bravo!” and added, in thickly accented English, “American are hero!” My face must have relaxed because he said “I tell you –my story.”

As my children stood next to me, I translated his story, sentence by sentence, the “responsable’s” extraordinary experience. His childhood was spent on his grandfather’s farm, several kilometers from the center of town. When he was about six years old, he was “helping [his] gran’pa” farm tomatoes when a tank and several trucks filled with soldiers pulled up to his field, guns pointing towards the farm house. After a breathless, fear-filled moment, the boy realized that the soldiers were Americans – they had come to liberate the town from the Nazi occupation. The boy and his grandfather greeted them with relief and cheer.

The soldiers, however, were starving for fresh fruit and vegetables, having existed on nothing but army rations for months. When they saw the tomatoes this little boy was tending, the tank commander asked if he could have “a taste,” miming a bite of an invisible tomato in his hand.  The boy looked to his gran’pa, who nodded.  The boy offered the commander the red tomato in his hand. The commander closed his eyes and bit into the fresh fruit.  With the seeds and juice running from the corners of his mouth, the soldier let his head fall back and an ecstatic smile appeared. His gran’pa ran to the farmshed and reappeared with a crate of tomatoes for the tank commander and his troops. The box of tomatoes was passed among the helmeted collection and the offering disappeared.  Though neither spoke a word of the other’s language, the commander thanked the farmer; the farmer thanked the tank commander. They both received a “taste” of what they most wanted! The tank commander radioed his experience to his headquarters and with applause and shouts in the air, he and his troops pulled out.

However, the farm was not empty for long. The commander’s transmission had been monitored by all of the other tanks in the area; the message that the tomatoes were superior and the farmer was generous did not go unnoticed.  Tanks and troops rolled in for days, all asking for “a taste” of the tomatoes. The crop of tomatoes was delivered by the grateful farmer and was consumed entirely by the grateful American troops.

And, it seems, nothing has really much changed over the last half century. We Americans keep coming back for more Provencal produce!  As our candy seller said, “Bravo!”

The candy store manager remembered this liberation “as if it were yesterday.”  “Look!” he said, pointing to the “goose bumps” on his arm. He was, in that moment, that six-year-old boy.

My children listened to this tale, hearing the lyric sounds of the French language and receiving the story in bits and pieces of interrupted English. They were amazed. We don’t hear often how we were heroes once, how the French were grateful to see us, how we were grateful to them and their tomatoes, and how we both may still share those qualities.

.

Wendy, owner of Bliss Travels, teaches French cuisine and designs one of kind culinary and cultural adventures in France. Bill Mathesius, a retired superior court judge, is an avid photographer. After their first experience in Paris, coordinated by Bliss Travels, much to their surprise, Bill and Marty became novice Francophiles.

 

Summer Vacation in Provence: 5 Tips for Shopping in Provencal Markets

Summer Vacations in Provence: 5 Tips for Shopping the Provencal Market The markets of Provence are world renown.  They are bustling, beautiful and bursting with mouth watering produce, cheeses, meats, breads, olive oils and wines. Just to name a few specialties. And, once your hunger and thirst have been quenched, you will notice flowers, linens, jewelry, artisan  products, gifts, clothing and more. A perfect  vacation day in Provence begins with a market tour. And just wandering the markets can be great. (Though we also like to send clients on a hunt for specific picnic or cooking class ingredients –part of the fun is learning to find and purchase.) How do you decide which of the cheese stands has the best cheese? How do you find the best baguette or artisan breads? Below are some tips for getting the most out of the Provencal markets.

  1. Tips for buying Produce. Buy local! French law requires that all produce be marked not just with its category  I, II, III (rating), but also its origin. I always stress buying and eating seasonally. I also believe local is better. So, first, look for the country. If it doesn’t say France, don’t buy it. Then look for the specific area of France.  Most people think that a sign that says “Provence” is a sign indicating “locally grown”. And, to a degree, it is. But, if you look carefully at the market produce stands, some will not just say Provence –but will say the town’s name. That’s when you’re at a truly local (and probably organic) stand. That’s where you want to look to buy first.  (And, if you know anything about the micro climates/towns, you’ll be able to decide whether you prefer strawberries from Carpentras or Aix-en-Provence –because you’ll know that they each have their own flavor –much the way wine from North Burgundy is different from wine from Southern Burgundy –even if they’re both Pinot Noirs.)
  2. Tips for buying cheeses. There are great cheeses from all over France. And certainly, importing cheese does not impact the quality the way it does for produce. Still, there are small local producers whose products are high quality, specially made, and cannot be found elsewhere. In Provence, this means goat cheeses.(There are no cows in Provence –so there are no cows milk cheeses made there..) The fresh goat cheeses  are local.  So try them. Look at what else they carry. If the cheese monger has a wide selection –he is likely to be an expert —  a knowledgeable collector of a wide variety of cheeses. If they carry one thing –just goat cheeses –then they are probably producers, and can provide you with a unique artisan product. You should look for one of these extremes.  They indicate special expertise, in two different ways.
  3. Tips for buying Meat and  Fish. Look and smell. Fish should look glossy and the eyes should look good. There should be no smell. Meat should look moist and fresh and also have no smell. It should be clear they are being kept cold. If you smell something, or it looks “tired”, this is not what you want. (Believe me, you know more than you think.)
  4. Tips for buying oils, jams and other “bottled and canned” products. The same principle applies. Look for a small artisan producer. Find a family business. Focus on small quality production. Look for handwritten labels (but proper canning procedure.) And taste. If you can’t taste, don’t buy. Artisan producers are very proud of their products and as such, offer tastes. They are convinced that you will buy it if you taste it. That’s the culture. So, if they won’t allow you to taste, that’ telling you something.
  5. Wait in line! If there are three vendors selling the same type of product –and there usually are –choose the one with the longest line (of locals). Why? Because these vendors come every week, have the same physical location at the market each time, and become as well known to market regulars as your local grocery is to you at home. If there’s a long line (of locals), there’s a reason.